By Kenneth Asch
Ken Asch as Méphistophélès in Faust, Bavarian State Theatre, Munich.
It would be only a slight exaggeration to claim that there wasn’t a dry eye when the moment arrived, early August, for Anthony O’Hear – professor, author, philosopher, lecturer – to bid adieu to the Collège International de Chavagnes.
O’Hear had come from England and the University of Buckingham, at the invitation of Ferdi McDermott, the College’s Principal (and founder), to explore the characters found in The Great Books one of O’Hear’s recent published works. In it, he presents his selection of the highlights of western literature from Homer to Goethe. The ten days he spent as guest lecturer, leading a group of eager summer students – young and old – in the study of classical literature, proved so successful in so many ways that the note of sadness was palpable upon the final break-up of class. Equally remarkable was the enthusiasm expressed by both staff and participants in the hope that the enterprise continues.
Martin Blake, retired schoolmaster living in Glastonbury reflected on O’Hear’s “wonderful job in bringing to life the great classics. And we have had a wonderful week of Vendée culture as well. Our host [Ferdi] has taken us around on all sorts of interesting expeditions and, of course, we have been extremely well fed.” Katie McGrath summed it up perfectly. “You know,” she reflected in her authentic Dublin lilt, “Anthony left us with a wonderful feeling, a real desire to revisit these authors when we get back home.”
The authors to whom she referred date back to the beginnings of European literature. They were all there – Euripides, Homer, Ovid, Dante, Shakespeare, Racine, Goethe, and others – except for those obvious examples for which ultimately there simply was insufficient time. However, such is O’Hear’s own universality and grasp of a subject generally held not only to be daunting but unfashionable as well, that he made the event as relaxed and enjoyable as it was educational.
This may be ascribed to the comfortable tone he established at the start. “Something that we’re pleased to call culture or civilisation should be regarded as a conversation,” he commented, “a conversation between the great writers themselves and between the great writers and us.
Equally important, he was quick to emphasise, is that the conversation is one “in which we’re participating, keeping alive and allowing to continue.” Perhaps O’Hear’s real achievement, there-fore, is acceptance of the fact that 21st-century life stands much to gain by listening more closely to the best of the ancient tales, by taking O’Hear’s lead and conversing not with the ancients but also with each other.
Meanwhile, the week comprised more than simply flawed and fallen heroes, Greek gods and Olympian struggles. Ferdi McDermott had arranged, thanks to his connections throughout the district of la Vendée, a series of extra-curricular activities which provided welcome relaxation as well as enhancing the educational and spiritual content of O’Hear’s programme. Apart from which everyone was unanimous in agreeing that a deeper appreciation was gained of the people whose land we were visiting.
Outstanding among the activities was a late-evening drive through the countryside to the Priory of Grammont. This is an impressive medieval structure dating back to the 1200s and tracing its origins back to Richard Coeur de Lion (“the Lion Heart”). It is considered to be among the best preserved of its kind in all of France. Surrounded by open pastureland stretching to the horizon, Grammont is a worthy destination under any circumstances. But the specific attraction for the friends of the Great Books was a late night procession through the priory led by a superb quintet of male voices chanting Gregorian chant renaissance polyphonic music. The event finished up with local refreshments and the best bonfire any of us could remember ever having seen. Glittering overhead in a star-spangled sky were constellations named after several of the characters in the Greek stories we had been studying!
It may be difficult to think of a theme park as a pastoral site, even a spiritual one. As much as anything else this is what impressed me about the Puy du Fou. The manner in which this fourth most-popular attraction in France has been conceived – might it have been Ferdi’s reason in choosing it as an extra-curricular moment ? – left Chavagnes’ classical students with much to remember.
Above all is the thoughtfulness with which a vast space has been planned to accommodate huge numbers of visitors, especially the preservation of lakes and streams and large tracts of natural woodland. All of which is enhanced by the good music – Handel, Rameau, Lully, Beethoven – that is piped discretely throughout the surroundings. Tranquillity results, surely a remarkable thing where so many people jostle for space and attention.
The selection of Puy du Fou itself, an historic site laid waste during the Vendéen wars of the Revolution provides an obvious setting for some of the major attractions. Among these is a recreation of the Vikings’ actual siege of the ancient town and their conversion to Christianity. Foremost, however, for me was being within the ruins of the original fortification and observing a natural relationship between animal and human being, 250 birds – mostly birds-of-prey – acting out in unison a series of complex trained manoeuvres. At the end, I was privileged with a spiritual moment of my own, bird-lover that I am, when one of these impressive animals flew to my side and stayed for a few moments.
For the course’s aficionados of travel by steam locomotion enjoyment was to be had in the unusual, albeit short, journey that traverses the most scenic stretch of the Vendéen landscape. Carriages of the original Orient Express have been for some years in the possession of the local railway preservation society. We enjoyed a delicious four course meal, with wine, in the 1920s restaurant car, while chugging along in the French sunshine.
A uniquely evocative event was a visit to the forest of Grasla where life in the Vendée during the Revolution is movingly recreated. Fifteen minutes by road from the Collège, the extensive forest became a refuge for citizens of this part of France who were seen to be opposed to the new order of things. Original implements, utensils, dress and the many well-preserved humble habitations contribute to a very realistic insight. The precarious circumstances in which many people did their utmost to exist are credibly brought to life by an energetic group of volunteer actors.
Picnicking under ancient ramparts, in this instance the medieval (13th century) town of Clisson, was preceded by a wine-tasting at one of the famous local estates. Muscadet is a cachet that represents la Vendée internationally. Another adventure was visiting a duck farm, close to the Collège’s home base, where originates France’s finest foie gras, so it is reliably claimed. Here, in convivial rustic surroundings, we feasted on duck and local wine with some invited local guests.
As a first-of-its-kind for the Collège International de Chavagnes, the combination of Anthony O’Hear and Ferdi McDermott was truly a resounding success. Given the many potential pitfalls, there is surely a sign here that the gods – classical and current – are looking kindly on the idea of a repeat performance as soon as the opportunity arises. “A very unique experience,” was Doreen Lehr’s reaction. “We learned a lot of things not just about the Great Books but about France, the area which we are in, the Vendée and its history and the culture . . . and it’s also been a very enjoyable experience , something that I would enjoy repeating next year with maybe a slightly different topic.” With equal enthusiasm, 17-year old Maggie Boyles attending from the USA (Pennsylvania) expressed her enthusiasm similarly for repeating the exercise. ” Oh yes, definitely [I’ll be back]. And I’ll be bringing my little sister Anna along, too.”
Plans for Summer 2010 are already in hand, and there are even plans to organise a similar event for young scholars – boys and girls – aged 13 and up.
Please keep an eye on this site for more information …
